Wandering through the slightly sketchy streets of red-light district Kabukichō, wind through the touts and ignore the calls for the more unsavory drinking spots. Instead head to Golden Gai, a charmingly scruffy part of the normally neon-lit Shinjuku.

• Food: noodle joint Nagi (Open 24 hours; 6 a 12 euros), Bistro Pavo (17h-00h; 6 a 12 euros)
• Bars: Tachibana Clinic (20h-04h), Bar Plastic Model (20h-5h; 80's and 90's), Happy Bar (soul, rock, blues, Showa era music), Hair of the Dog (19h-0h; 80s punk and ska), La Jetée (aberto 24h; tiny space being used for scenes in the movie Tokyo Ga, and is frequented by cinephiles and actors), Albatross, Kenzo’s Bar, Ace’s